a week in lake chelan

They would know, we were here, too. Living slow.

In May, the mountains are lush green at Lake Chelan, the morning air cool, and the sun fiery. I was here because of a family reunion. My sister, Elou, flew from Japan. My brother, Louie, brought his daughters and wife along from California. My mother, Belle, and youngest sister, Aleczzy, joined as well. Missing from the action was my youngest brother, Neil, and his wife and daughter who due to work could not travel.

North-central Washington state mountains. God is real y’all.

Lake Chelan is about 100 miles east of Seattle. To my four-year-old niece that translates to, we will get there in 3 hours. City-born, city-bred, I was aware that Lake Chelan would not offer me fast life entertainment. But I was not looking for that. Instead, I knew that the narrow, fifty-mile-long lake in north-central Washington state would allow for a much-needed time to simply exist— the time to be slow. To be slow like molasses. And as well all know, molasses is a good source of iron, selenium, and copper, all of which help maintain healthy bones — our body's foundation.

I would have ferociously perused Ralph Lauren ads in a given normal year to embody that old money-Nantucket faded red Bermuda shorts-Lilly Pulitzer blouse everyday-blue blood look. But the great humbling of COVID19 left me too exhausted to even attempt to penetrate this elusive milieu. Therefore, preparing for my Lake Chelan trip was easy enough. I threw in a couple of summer dresses, shorts, moisturizer, and a toothbrush. I was set. I intended to live life to the fullest slow. I wanted the type of slowness that made even reading books too fast.

Lake Chelan, as I’ve discovered, is home to about 4,000 residents. But during the summer season, more than 20,000 tourists invade this small town like weeds. This has caused somewhat of a divide amongst the town’s full-time residents. A white middle-aged woman we met at Willow Point Park confessed how much tourism has added to her woes, claiming that both local resources and cultural identity are at stake. In opposition to that view was my Airbnb property owner. For him, the past several years have been wonderful. In fact, so wonderful, he insisted we ought to stop by his newest restaurant and try their famous blueberry pancakes. I understand that my family and I are the cause of both joy and affliction. Yet, should you travel, you ought to consider a week in Lake Chelan.

What to see:

Our view from our large balcony where looking was a luxury in and of itself.

Of the many things my family and I could have done in Lake Chelan, perhaps the greatest activity was simply looking. Out on the balcony, my mother, my siblings, and I sipped our coffees. No fog needed lifting, nor shadows on the lake. Instead, the blue sky drew its curtains and revealed the sun casting its sparkling light across the water. That morning we listened to the birds charming the cool air. I once imagined what rest might look like for an immigrant, single mother who came to the US with her children and 50 cents in her pocket. This was soon answered. The way my mother closed her eyes reminded me of a monk’s sleep in the deep quietude of joy.

What to eat:

Sure, Lake Chelan is home to enviable wineries. In fact, it has more than thirty wineries hugging the shores of an astonishing lake. Naturally, we visited Tsillan Cellars Winery and bought a couple of bottles of red and white wines. But like I said, we were here to live slow. And since we are Filipinos, time with family means cooking family dishes. I love many of the dishes my mother cooks — adobo, lumpia, and even dinuguan — the rich, dark stew made with pig’s blood and innards. But one of my favorite dishes is sisig. Sisig is made with chopped pork, onions, and chilies, and served with vinegar and/or fresh calamansi (lime/lemons) to add a sharp flavor that balances the fattiness of the meat.

Here’s what you’ll need:

½ pound pork belly — sliced about half-inch thick
ginger (thumb size)
1 small red onion, 2 garlic cloves — finely chopped
½ lemon
1 teaspoon of bouillon cube, 1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper and salt

Here’s what you’ll do:

1. Boil the pork belly for about 30 minutes with a bay leaf, 1 teaspoon of bouillon cube, salt, and pepper, and two garlic cloves.
2. Drain the water and put the pork in the fridge, covered, for at least 1 hour.
3. Grill pork belly until well done. Pork skin should be crispy.
4. Once grilled, chop the pork belly into small fine pieces.
5. Combine the chopped meat, onions, lemon juice, ginger and vinegar, and pepper in a bowl. Adjust to your taste.
6. Warm it in a pan with a bit of oil if desired. (Optional — you may cook an egg on top).
7. Add the sisig and serve while still hot.

What to do:

An example of living slow and well, paddling slow.

I was told Lake Chelan was a boater’s paradise. Home to water aficionados. I love water. It’s this sort of thing that calls me. There are many places to rent boats, kayaks, paddleboards, and jet skis. You won’t run out of options here. We chose Lake Rider Sports at Don Morse Park. The folks that operate this are local to the area. They were kind and extremely helpful. We slipped into the cockpits and placed paddles to the pond. Our kayaks slid across a glassy stretch of water, its bow glided through the calm air. I highly recommend paddling along Chelan Riverwalk Park and looping back along Chelan Riverwalk Loop until you hit a small, sandy area to pull in and frolic. My nieces drew odd shapes, trees, and built sandcastles. Soon enough, the river would rise and consume what has been created. But before then, the locals and other tourists would see them. They would know, we were here, too. Living slow.